(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 2 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips)

It’s important to know the details of the Hybrid vehicle you’re driving, like it’s electric Horsepower (HP) capability.  The electric HP determines how easily or difficult the battery alone will be able to power the needs of the driver, often called the “load”.  Basically, “load” is how much work yo’re asking of the vehicle.  

Understanding “load” on a vehicle’s engine is KEY

“Load” is heavy on a 0-60 sprint. Load is required any time acceleration is called for, be it soft or hard.  Conversely, “Load” is virtually nothing on a deceleration, braking or coasting.  You could be holding a steady 55mph – “Load” will be greater on any slope going uphill against gravity, however small of an incline, while “load” will be less if holding the same speed of 55mph, but going downhill with gravity.  In essence, “Load” is how much the engine has to work to give the driver what they’re asking from vehicle with their foot on the accelerator.  Factors such as vehicle weight (including cargo) affect the “Loads”, along with electrical demand (Like A/C, headlights, etc), amongst other factors.

It’s important to understand that Hybrid vehicles have two motors: An electric battery powered motor and a conventional ICE (remember: Internal Combustion Engine) motor.  Each motor provides its own HP capability (and torque).  Add each up and you have the “combined HP and Torque” numbers which are the most often advertised numbers.

Load and electric HP capability varies by vehicle, and their given electric motor

A Toyota Pruis has 96 to 98 HP of electric only HP.  A Toyota Camry Hybrid has around 118 HP of electric only HP.  A Ford Fusion Hybrid also has around 118 electric HP.  For the sake of this article – the 2021 Ford F-150 Powerboost 3.5 Ecoboost has 41 electric only HP.  And no, this is not a typo.  

Understanding the capabilities and specifications of your particular vehicle’s hybrid system is key to determining how soft you’ll need to use your accelerator pedal in order to not inadvertently demand more load from the vehicle than it’s electric motors HP can provide.

If you’re riding at a certain speed in battery only mode, and the accelerator is depressed so much so that the engine’s system believes the driver needs more load than the electric HP can provide, the ICE will come back on to meet that load demand.  If the driver is soft on the pedal, and aware of the HP capabilities, they’ll begin to better control how soft or hard they use the accelerator while being mindful of the “load” and electric motor HP capabilities of their vehicle. 

Quick Example

Imagine you’re in general suburban stop and go traffic, and you’re soft on the pedal from your stops. You’re more likely to stay in battery mode for the first gear or so, because you aren’t requiring much “load” from the engine.

Conversely, even in the same environmental situation, if you’re laying on the pedal from your stopped positions beyond what the system believes it’s electric only HP will be able to provide you, then the ICE will fire up right away.

You can see how understanding “load” and electric HP will begin to be able to let YOU manipulate how the system operates as you become more and more in tune with the vehicle and its capabilities and specs.  

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 3 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips)

Now that we have a better understanding of “Load”, this section should be easier to understand.  

When coasting or braking to a stop, or even just down to a much lower speed, the ICE can be manipulated into shutting off, allowing the battery to come on by itself for a moment.  Remember, there is no “Load” being asked of from the vehicle in those situations.  

Further, while coasting and braking, the battery charges.  The LONGER you’re braking (using brake friction to generate a charge for the battery) the MORE you’ll charge the battery.  It’s not how HARD you brake.  Hard braking stops faster, and limits the friction time, resulting in less charge time.  When you brake hard and fast, you charged less, and have less stored battery power to provide you with the electric only HP you’ll desire when accelerating from a stop again, or simply to pick up speed, etc.

Coast with long braking when you can

If you see a red light ahead, begin coasting and using a long brake.  If you see traffic ahead you know you’ll need to slow down for, begin sooner.  Any chance you get to provide charge for the battery the better.  

Further, when the system knows, or THINKS you are beginning to want to come to a stop, it shuts off the ICE and enters battery only mode, thus no longer using fuel.  The longer distances you can drive without the ICE, the more you’ll save in fuel. 

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 4 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips- How To Maximize Fuel Economy In a Hybrid)

This may come as a surprise, because most of us grew up understanding that cruise control (CC) provided for a steadier accelerator, resulting in better gas mileage.  This is very true still, especially if you have an ICE only vehicle. But, I’ve learned that when I’m in CC in any hybrid, I don’t get the same efficient results as when I’m able to manipulate the hybrid’s system on my own. So, I use LESS cruise control in my hybrids.  

Here’s what I noticed

If I was in CC at 55 mph and I came across a moderate slope decline the ICE usually remained on.   

If I was NOT in CC at 55 mph and came across that same exact decline, I could push the brakes just enough to manipulate the system into believe I MAY be intending to come to a stop or slow for traffic just ahead.  I’m not intending to stop, but I made the system think I was.  More technically, I drastically decreased the load for a brief moment, mimicking that of an intended stop. So, the ICE shuts off. The battery comes on.  Now I can coast for as long as I can on the decline, pushing the pedal only oh so much to maintain the 55 mph, and truly conserve fuel.  

The ICE may come back on rather quickly even in this technique, but little by little the battery only miles add up.  Remember this pro-tip:  the faster you are going in battery only mode GREATLY improves MPG.  5 seconds of ground covered in battery only mode at 60 mph (covers .08 of a mile) is a LOT more distance than 10 seconds in battery only made at 20 mph (which covered only .05 of a mile).

It’s not the amount of TIME in battery mode you’re wanting… it’s the DISTANCES in battery mode you want in order to achieve maximum fuel efficiency.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 5 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips – Brake Tap Force the Brake to Turn on Battery Only Mode)

Only use this technique when cars aren’t following you closely.   However, when these opportunities do exist, they’re golden.

The trick here is to manipulate the system again.  Remember earlier I mentioned that if you make the system think you may be intending a stop (more technically speaking:  you are performing an action that drastically decreases “load”), the system will go into hybrid mode, for at least a little while.  A few seconds to perhaps even a little more than a few seconds.

Also remember that a few seconds in battery mode at higher speeds equates to more distance traveled in battery only mode using no fuel.

What I do

Whatever the desired speed, I often like to go to 5 to 10 above that desired speed. I’ll tap the brake hard enough to manipulate the system into shutting off for a few seconds or more.  I then get back down to the actual desired speed and then go into a soft pedal, remembering what my electric HP capabilities are.  In the 2021 Ford Powerboost, I know that it caps out at 41 HP and I also realistically understand it’s trying to maintain the speed hauling at least 5800+ lbs of curbweight plus myself and my gear.

Compare this technique to simply going to the desired speed and staying there.  Conventionally, the system would have no reason to switch to battery mode without the extra manipulation.

These are small gains, but all of these techniques truly add up tremendously. 

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 6 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips)

Tip #5 is a general technique that can be applied at level ground.  If done correctly, you can even get some battery only distance going uphill as well.

But this technique takes full advantage of tip #5 in doing it every time there is even the slightest downward slope.  This naturally would require less electric HP to stay at desired speed, and for longer periods.  

Watch your MPGs drastically increase.  This is also where CC being on tends to maintain the ICE operation, versus your manual manipulations.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 7 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips – Draft behind bigger vehicles in your Hybrid)

Draft behind bigger vehicles at higher speeds

Now that we understand load and the electric HP capabilities of the electric motor, then this next section should be easier to explain. Draft behind bigger vehicles and let THEM break up the air.

Taking lessons from racing such as NASCAR, you may have already learned the concept of “drafting”.  Drafting is when one car uses the broken up air from the vehicle in front of them.  The vehicle ahead, who’s breaking the air, is dealing with the air resistance.  With regard to the air alone, the vehicle ahead is using more load to maintain the desired speed.  The vehicle behind has less resistance from the air, and therefore requires less load to maintain the same speed.  The following requires less HP and is demanding less load than if it were the one breaking up the air.

As a result, the second vehicle is working easier, and has the ability to store more, and use, less energy.  Naturally, this means more opportunity for battery-only time.

Never follow someone too closely

It is important to note that one should never be following too closely to another vehicle ahead.  Tractor trailers work well for this technique – they break up huge patches of air.  

It’s also worth nothing that drafting only really works the faster you are going.  Air is a harder resistor at higher speeds versus low speeds.  The hand out a window at 60 MPH versus at 15 MPH displays easily how air becomes harder to resist the faster one goes against it.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 9 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips- routes with traffic lights and other cars help a hybrid do it’s job to save gas and increase MPG.)

As you can see from some of the tips and techniques listed before this one, having vehicles ahead and some stop and go are way more advantageous for a hybrid system to prosper than if the hybrid system had an open road ahead, with no reasons to brake, and with harder air resistance.  

Routes that require traffic lights allow for opportunities to brake and coast in battery only mode.  Cars ahead allow for justifiable braking to the vehicles traveling behind you.  At certain speeds some vehicles can be used to break up denser air.  Fluctuations in rolling speeds due to increased traffic allow for more abrubpt deceleration or braking to trigger the system into battery only.

As you can see, the road MORE traveled has become an asset to the knowledgeable hybrid driver.  If you have the extra few minutes of commute time, taking the road more traveled can save a good amount of money.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 10 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips – Stop and Go traffic is the best thing for Hybrids, whether you like it or not)

This is similar to #9, but different in that stop and go traffic can result in miles of pure battery only.  Stop and go allows for soft acceleration into the first 3 gears, attaining speeds up to 20 or 30 mph, and with little to no wind resistance, all allowing the vehicle to stay in pure battery mode.  The continuous long braking regenerates battery power.  Stop and go traffic is a hybrid driver’s best friend when looking for free mileage. 

So instead of becoming irritated at the traffic, allow yourself extra time to sit in this gift to hybrid drivers and appreciate it a little more.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 11 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips, Low Tire Pressures hurt MPG, whether in a Hybrid or Not))

As with any vehicle, be them hybrid, pure electric, or ICE, whatever… resistance of any kind against forward momentum will use more energy. And the goal is to require the least amount of energy as possible. 

The resistance a tire has against pavement is a major energy user.  You’ve read and heard about it before because it’s not a myth:  Low air pressure means a more flattened tire, which results in more rubber contacting the ground.  The tires also become more maliable, and at acceleration, the flexibility of the tire creates a drag force which requires torque to compensate for the resistance.  

Having properly inflated tires greatly minimizes these drains on energy.  Something as simple as improperly inflated tires can result in decreases of 1 to even 5 MPG, on tires that don’t even yet appear to be low! Check the tires regularly, and at minimum, each change of season, as temperature and weather changes directly affect tire air pressure.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 12 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips – Low Resistant Tires Allow for More Battery Only Time In your Hybrid)

As a piggy back to #11, in addition to a properly inflated tire, you should choose tires whose rubber compound and designs are made specifically for combating road pavement resistance.  Tires are made for different purposes, so the technology is there to design tires for the types of traction one needs them for.

If you have the ability and the need to set up your vehicle with less resistant tires, this would drastically help in fuel/energy consumption management, be it a hybrid vehicle or not.

I had a 2019 Ram 1500 with a Hemi in it.  I swapped my factory issued tires with a set of low resistance eco friendly Michelins (which also happened to be rated better than all competitors in every performance category).  I immediately noticed a 1 mpg gain from this adjustment alone.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 13 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips, Using Lighter Wheels Decreases weight, and therefore, Load.)

Weight and payload (cargo, vehicle weight, etc) altogether play a huge part in how much energy is needed to get a vehicle up to a desired speed keep any vehicle at that speed.  

Cargo and payload is manageable and can differ, depending on what and who you’re hauling.  Conversely, a vehicle’s standing curbweight, generally, remains a constant.  However there is one component of a vehicle’s standard curbweight that can be changed: the wheels.  

Lighter wheels really do make a difference

It may seem like a stretch, but any racing driver or enthusiast could affirm, lighter wheels make for a faster car.  Why?  Because they require less energy.  If you have more energy to spare with lighter wheels, and if you don’t go faster as a result of the newfound energy, then you’ll see the gains through savings in energy consumption.

Wheels that weigh less by even just a couple pounds per wheel yield noticeable MPG benefits.  I won’t go into the physics of why in detail, but believe me – it works, and works well.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 14 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips – Better Flowing Air Into The Engine Makes More Power)

An engine that breathes better runs better.  Just like their drivers!  As humans, we need a good air and breathing system. Our lungs take in air, so that oxygen can get into our bloodstream and we can have more energy.  If our lungs have problems taking in oxygen, we pant and sweat. Because our bodies have to work harder to maintain the energy for what we are doing at the moment.

Engines are similar.  Hybrids and conventional ICE engines need air for the engine to work.  And restrictive air filters make it harder for the engine to get the air it needs to spark a good burst of power into the cylinders.  This restriction of air causes the engine to work harder, and thus, uses more energy to do what it needs to do.

Higher flowing air filters are out there

There are higher flowing aftermarket air filters that allow for less restrictive airflow, while also cleaning the debris from the air before it enters the engine.  This freer flow of air provides the extra power.

If you don’t use that extra power and energy for more speed, that extra energy can be converted into less energy used by the engine.  Less energy consumed will equal energy cost savings.  

Air filters and intake systems are one of the first cheap and simple modifications I do to every single car I purchase, within days of acquisition of the vehicle.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 15 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips, Changing Engine Often Keeps a Smoother Engine)

As we discuss the ways to help the ICE part of your hybrid system to work easier (and these ICE engine tips apply for ANY engine, hybrid or not), we cannot ignore oil.

As we’ve discussed, an engine that works easier uses less energy.  A great oil greatly reduces the strain and wear and tear on an engine.  Properly lubed pistons and parts work more freely conserving energy which can be energy saved.  

Further, a healthier engine lasts longer, so you get to keep these energy saving for years to come.  

Using Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Depending on what your engine may require, you’ll always want to use the weight (i.e. 5W-30, etc) that your vehicle’s manufacturer recommends.   But the oil type is also important.  I use Full Synthetic.  It is smoother on the engine.  And I replace it at half the time recommended by manufacturer, religiously.  This ensures the vehicle doesn’t work as hard as it needs to, conserving energy.

A good oil that keeps an engine working smoother keeps a cooler engine, and a cooler engine uses less energy.  There are many articles explaining in detail the benefits of oil, and you should read them.  But to keep this article as brief as possible, just know that this is important, and a big one.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 16 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips, Force Braking Into Battery Only Mode Gets Better High Speed Time)

This section is all by itself because this tip is singularly important:  if you’re too afraid to do a gentle yet forcible brake, you’ll never get to really seeing the MPG gains you’re really seeking.

It’s a technique that gets better with practice.  Without alarming travelers behind you, you simply brake just hard enough to make the system believe you may be intending to slow down drastically or even come to a stop. Doing this technique at the higher speeds is what will net more distance in battery only mode. This will equal fast jumps in MPG and fuel economy savings.

Simply put:  Don’t be timid, and learn how to do it without irritating those cars around you, or your passengers. And, be safe about it.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 17 – Continuing the Series of Ford F-150 Powerboost Problems with MPG? Try the Following 26 Tips, Try To Drive in the Optimal Weather for Hybrid Vehicles)

Again, like any vehicle, the optimum temperature for the hybrid to run within is 65° to 75°.  It’s not only great for the engine of the vehicle, but is great for the battery. The battery doesn’t get too hot and burns off energy.  It isn’t too cold where the battery has a harder time recharging.

If you have the ability to plan your trips around temperatures, this tip may help a lot.  MPG changes in hybrids and regular ICE vehicles can range an easy 5 MPG or more lower when traveling in temperatures 20° hotter OR colder.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 18 – Continuing the Series of Hybrid Driving Tips to Maximize Fuel Economy MPG, Sea Level is Best for an Engine’s Fuel Economy)

This may not be anything you can control, especially on a daily basis.  But I wanted to be sure you understood that for any engine, hybrid or not, engines are more efficient and generally perform better at sea level altitudes.  

Keep this in mind when watching YouTube videos doing MPG Road tests.  Maybe you like the MPG results they’re achieving, or you don’t.  Just ask yourself, or them, what the testing conditions were.  Was it sea level, or a mile high, like Denver – higher altitudes generally don’t perform as well with fuel efficiency.  Was it 40° out, or was it 75°?  Etc.  If you see a result, guage an expected MPG based on the tests variables, and where and in which conditions you know you will be actually using your own vehicle and engine.  Armed with some basic facts, you can theoretically adjust the figures for your expectations, based on your own variables you’ll be living with.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 19 – Continuing the Series of Hybrid Driving Tips to Maximize Fuel Economy MPG, Dry Roads Allow for Better MPG and Fuel Economy)

I won’t go into major detail in this tip, because of you read my earlier tips, the concept is explained within those tips.  

But I wanted to ensure expectations were still on point.  With regards to pavement, dry will always be better than wet or snowy for less energy consumption, be it battery or ICE the vehicle is operating on at the moment.

After understanding what resistance does to energy from the tips above, you now know why this is important.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 20 – Continuing the Series of Hybrid Driving Tips to Maximize Fuel Economy MPG – Limit any AWD or 4WD activities, They Use Energy)

The use of AWD draws electrical power, which is energy used.  If you aren’t in need of using the AWD, I wouldn’t use it.  Of course safety is paramount over fuel savings.  So, in inclement weather like snow or rain, you should always be in AWD.  If you’re on loose gravel or dirt, you should be in AWD.  You may even want or need AWD with spirited driving on dry pavement, through twisty turns, etc.

What this article is suggesting is that if you don’t NEED AWD, then it should be used sparingly if you’re seeking to maximize your MPG’s.

Why AWD or 4WD uses gas

When the vehicle’s searching for traction and detects slip, which AWD’s function, and is shuffling those responsibilities around randomly amongst the 4 wheels and tires. This uses energy.

If you keep the transfer case in 2WD, this limits the activity to the two remaining wheels. 2WD helps fuel efficiency.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 21 – Continuing the Series of Hybrid Driving Tips to Maximize Fuel Economy MPG, Keeping Less Weight Lets The Engine Work Lighter)

This next tip comes from a guy who always carries 200 lbs of gear in his truck cabin and inside containers in his bed.  This gear includes a very heavy hydraulic jack, emergency gear, towing equipment, locks, flares, lights, etc.  So when I’m recommending keeping cargo weight at a minimum, I recognize the need for many of you to have a truck – to carry stuff.  

If you want to maximize MPGs, simply be cognizant of how much cargo the vehicle is adding to it’s payload.  As we’ve learned, weight causes resistance in the form of total vehicle weight and tire to pavement resistance.  This increases “load” on the engine, which requires more energy. This energy will require more HP than the electric motor’s maximum HP capacity allows.  When the reuirement is more than the electric motor can provide, the ICE engages sooner and more often.  This then eats the gas and hurts MPG.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 22 – Continuing the Series of Hybrid Driving Tips to Maximize Fuel Economy MPG – Bed Covers Can Help Decrease Wind Resistance and Help MPG)

This topic has been debated for years. The television show Mythbusters even had a segment pertaining to this subject.  Some people swear that bed covers save fuel by allowing air to flow over the bed easier.  Some people, including Mythbusters, say it doesnt really matter.  The naysayers, like Mythbusters make a compelling argument. They say that the faster a truck rides with its tailgate in the closed position, there’s a big bubble of hardened air that forms in the bed. As a result, at higher speeds the air flow flows right over the bubble, negating the need for a bed cover for fuel savings.  It makes sense.

We think Bed Covers DO work to help MPG, but it’s just our opinion.

Trukbed feels that bed covers work just as well, and since everyone should have a bed cover anyway, it’s worth a shot at saving some more fuel.  The bed cover adds up to 50 or 80 pounds of payload weight, so keep that in mind.

Worth noting, truck manufacturers are now designing their cabins to aerodynamically match up to the shape of the top of the tailgates in an attempt to minimize the air drag caused by an open bed.  So truck hybrid owners have the designers working to their MPG advantage as well.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 23 – Continuing the Series of Hybrid Driving Tips to Maximize Fuel Economy MPG – Take Turns Slow and Easy In Battery Only Mode for Better MPG)

If you recall in the earlier tips, I touched on how a large bulk of fuel is consumed at low speeds in lower gears, as the engine churns itself up in gears.  The higher the gears and lower the RPM’s the better.  But when accelerating, low gears get into higher RPMs, and its those RPMs that use the most fuel.

RPM = Revolutions Per Minute.  One revolution is all of the cylinders firing in a round.  If you are at 2000 RPM in a 6 cylinder, that means that if you sat there for a full minute, all 6 cylinders will have fired as a set 2000 times.  That’s a lot of spurts of fuel.  And you could be doing this very routine at 25 mph. 

Let’s compare that to going 60 mph, but RPM’s are at 1400.  Same 6 cylinders.  So clearly, speed doesn’t dictate how much fuel you use, its how many times a squirt of fuel was squirted into the combustion chamber into the spark plug.

Tires turning full left and right causes resistance. Make that resistance be in battery only as much as you can – versus using the gas.

Considering this, if you can take your turns slowly and softly enough to be in battery mode, and let the battery mode keep you above first or second gear, then the ICE will resume in third or fourth gear, eliminating the low gear/higher RPM lesson I just wrote about in the last paragraph.

This equals more potential for saving fuel, increasing MPG.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 24 – Continuing the Series of Hybrid Driving Tips to Maximize Fuel Economy MPG)

Tip #3 referred to long, soft braking when coming to a stop.  I said to not wait til the last second, because the longer you brake, not the harder, is where the battery recharges and regenerates stored energy.  

I wanted to distinguish #3 from this technique (#24), which addresses approaching actual slower moving traffic ahead.  It’s different than approaching a bunch of stopped vehicles, a stop sign, traffic light, etc. 

Implementing this technique

 
In this scenario, you may need to come from 55 mph to say, 45 mph.  If you braked or coasted slowly, the hybrid system may not be determining that you are coming to a stop soon.  We know you aren’t coming to a stop, because I JUST said, you are coming to rolling traffic.  But this is about manipulating the system into THINKING you’re maybe thinking of coming to a stop.

So, in this scenario, if you hit the brakes just hard enough to duplicate what it would feel like if you WERE to come to a stop ahead, the ICE will likely shut off faster, preparing for a battery only coast and brake to this “stop”.

Instead, do this: After the ICE shuts off, do a coast to the desired 45 MPH. Then, recognizing your electric motor has a maximum HP for its battery only mode, soft pedal as much as you can to maintain that 45 mph. Try asking for less than that maximum electric HP load.  In the case of the 2021 Ford F-150 Powerboost Hybrid, it is 41 HP.

This technique is used most often during the drive

It’s this method that you’ll likely do most often as you drive.  It’s what allows for higher speed in battery only modes. This is where the true MPG gains are.  When used with all the other techniques and tips listed before this, you’ll become a hybrid driving MASTER.

(How To Drive a Hybrid Tip 25 – Continuing the Series of Hybrid Driving Tips to Maximize Fuel Economy MPG)

This last tip is important, and it is to make every other tip a HABIT.  The tips listed above are not HYPERMILING.  There is no inconveniencing others in these tips, and in fact, the traditional Hypermile doesn’t even work well with the hybrid system, if you truly understand how the hybrid system works.  

For instance, hypermiling says to accelerate slowly.  NOT WITH A HYBRID ENGINE.  Hopefully you understand.  

Further, those YouTube reviewers stating low MPG’s for the hybrid they’re testing may be astonished to learn they were Hyper-miling. Some hyper-miling techniques will do the opposite to hybrid MPGs than an ICE only vehicle.

Hybrid-Miling

What I am suggesting is more of a, shall I go ahead and coin it?  HYBRID-MILING.

 
You need to make these tips and techniques a habit – a way of life.  In time, you will be driving your hybrid like a master without even thinking about it.  You will be at a point where you will be carrying on in conversation about anything in the world while you drive, and your brain and your foot are working these habits without you ever knowing.

Conclusion

So there you have it.  Trukbed’s How To Drive a Hybrid: 25 Tips and Techniques for Driving Any Hybrid Vehicle for the Best MPG Results.  These tips and techniques have been beating EPA numbers posted on MSRP stickers for years.  If done correctly, you can easily save a couple hundred dollars year in fuel costs. I sincerely hope this article has helped anyone who may have been having problems getting the EPA 24 MPG in their Ford F-150 Powerboost Hybrid.

Based on feedback, many readers have received a lot of useful information from this article. As winter and cold weather approaches, Trukbed offers another hybrid driving tip. A hybrid in the winter comes with a couple nuances that those in the summer or warm locales don’t really deal with. If you are wondering why you’re getting low MPG in cold weather, this article may help you. Many Ford F-150 Powerboost owners are reporting MPG problems as the cold weather starts.

Starting the Hybrid: The engine probably starts right Away, vs. the battery

The engine is cold

All summer you may have noticed the battery was ready to drive immediately upon starting the car. No engine would run. The battery had enough power to get you going practically immediately. As the winter and cold weather has approached, you may have noticed the internal combustion engine churning almost immediately.

This is because of two things: The engine has gotten cold – too cold for comfort according to your vehicle’s analytics. While you can drive the car, the system knows it needs to be warmer. So, it starts the vehicle to get it going and to pump the settled oil around the motor. It’s starting immediately so it can simply warm up to it’s own acceptable operating temperature.

The battery is also cold

Overnight, or even after an hour or two during the day in more frigid temperatures, the battery lost some energy. this was due to the temperatures. Batteries and cold do not get along that well with each other. So, the battery must also be recharged. The vehicle will charge the battery while the engine is warming up.

Afford yourself up to 10 minutes of more time in colder weather.

Unfortunately, if you want to maximize MPG efficiency with your hybrid in cold weather, you need to afford yourself more time before you get going. The time it takes will depend on the variables of how cold the engine and batteries have gotten. Generally speaking, you should afford yourself about 10 extra minutes. In fact, most engine remote start capable vehicles idle for a maximum of 10 to 15 minutes before they automatically shut off.

In this time, the engine will be charging your battery as well as warming up the vehicle. You may choose to use the remote start, or simply wait in the vehicle while it warms and charges.

Winter gas is among us again, don’t forget!

I have an article that discusses fuel, octane, winter and summer gas, and more. You should read it for more information regarding this aspect of why your MPG will be lower in your hybrid during colder weather. Here is the link.

Very briefly, winter gas is worse on your fuel efficiency than summer gas for various reasons. It’s a double whammy. The cold weather is draining your battery and causing the engine to go far below a good operating temperatures. Now the gas in a winter gas solution that isn’t as efficient as the summer.

So put it together, and you see that the inefficient winter gas HAS to be used WHILE you need to warm up the engine AND charge your battery! This alone will hurt the MPG numbers you have been used to all summer. But your own driving habits may also be throwing in another hurtful variable.

You may be driving off too soon. Way too soon, in fact.

You may be taking off for your destination too soon, and his could also be why your hybrid MPG is lower. But not allowing the battery to get charged, you forced a cold engine to do some heavy lifting for the first parts of your journey. Heavy lifting your battery was doing all summer, most likely.

A couple of the tips in my previous article discusses how to use the battery in low gears. Using engine in lower gears causes higher RPMs, and higher RPMs cause more fuel use. Well, when you take off too soon in a cold hybrid battery and engine, you’re not allowing the battery to be able to do any of that heavy lifting anymore. All low speed, low gear, high RPM work must be performed by the engine. A cold engine, which is also trying to warm itself.

You’re still going to get lower MPG than summer, even if you warm up.

Because the engine has to run in order to warm up and charge the battery, you will see less MPG than the summertime. It’s simply how it goes. And as mentioned, with winter gas vs. summer gas, that will not help matters. It’s best to accept the MPG’s will be lower. Upside? Your lower hybrid MPG is still going to be higher than any non-hybrid of your same vehicle model. The hybrid still serves a purpose. Once it is warmed up, both engine and battery, it should operate nearly as normal as it does during summer.

Just also remember, the winter gas variable applies, and is less efficient than summer gas, no matter how warmed up the engine and battery are.

It’s better to warm up at a constant engine idle than to drive.

Some may ask, what does it matter. If the engine has to work at idle anyway, why not just get going? Because idle RPMs are going to stay low, using less fuel. If you drive, you use much higher RPMs, and that drinks fuel.

Besides, the engine needs time to pump settled motor oil around in the crankcase with the oil pump – whether you have a hybrid, or a traditional engine only vehicle.. Give it time. Give it the 10 minutes.

Allow that warm up time to get better Hybrid MPG in the winter.

While you will most certainly never equal your summer MPG, you can still conserve as much as you can. By remembering to give yourself and your hybrid more time, you will be saving money. Used in conjunction with my other 25 tips and techniques, you will definitely conserve fuel and raise your average MPG.

Maybe you can take that time to make a delicious cup of coffee in a travel mug, like from Nespresso for example, versus having to stop along the morning commute!

When the engine finally shuts off and the hybrid is ready in battery only mode, you are good to go.

So, there you go. This was my hybrid MPG driving tip #26. Best of luck to you, and thank you for reading! If you liked this article and feel like it may be useful to your friends and family, please forward it along! Subscribe if you’d like to see more tips like this in the future.